3 capacitor 240v motor, hook up capacitors? On SpeedAire 5F563 compressor
Ok I knew I should have taken a picture but I left the stuff connected while I got two new capacitors and the prongs broke off and I have no idea wire the capacitors back up. The motor runs of 220v. It's a SpeedAire 5F563 and I think a Dayton motor. The motor has 3 wires coming out of it, then there are 3 I guess you would call them jumper wires. Then of course 3 capacitors. The compressor: The 3 wires coming out of the motor: The 3 capacitors and 3 jumpers: Does anyone know how these should hook up? Did you get a magnetic starter for the motor or is it still running through the pressure switch? Also still on the 30A dryer circuit? Originally Posted by ibpooks Did you get a magnetic starter for the motor or is it still running through the pressure switch? Also still on the 30A dryer circuit? No, no magnetic starter and yes it's running on the 30A dryer circuit. Do you know hook the capacitors up? From what I've seen this compressor never came with a magnetic starter, so I wouldn't know what to look for. It was running great but two of the original capacitors were broke, making the breaker trip when it tried the recycle on. anyone? I'd like to get it hooked back up asap. If there isn't a wiring diagram on the motor then I haven't a clue. Marc is pretty sharp with motors and their color-coded wiring and he may be able to help. Rarely is a magnetic starter included with a piece of motor-driven machinery but that does not negate the desirability of the starter. Unless the motor has a built-in overload protection system the starter IS required under the NEC. The 30 ampere branch circuit may also be contrary to code for this machine, especially without the starter. Sorry for the delay to reply in here have few odd and ends to take care first now let get to the point. The run capaitors are wired in paralleled format { larger capaitors } while starting capaitor is smaller. This part will get tricky to deal due that motor not always have marked conductors for start and run capaitors. I will make a very rough example here O==O== to motour S= to motour O mean run capaitors S mean Start capaitor And you have three wire correct ?? If so one lead is common to both start and run capaitors And one lead will go to the run capaitors while other lead will be at start capaitor the shape of the conductor is allready forumed so it kinda pretty easy to tell which is which and look at the mounting band you will see the diffrence between the two. { the run capaitors are larger so they are designed to take cont useage } If you still have issue let us know asap one of us will make a drawing or call the Dayton tech support centre and they can send you a email of drawing on the connection as well if they have it. Merci. Marc Originally Posted by french277V Sorry for the delay to reply in here have few odd and ends to take care first now let get to the point. The run capaitors are wired in paralleled format { larger capaitors } while starting capaitor is smaller. This part will get tricky to deal due that motor not always have marked conductors for start and run capaitors. I will make a very rough example here O==O== to motour S= to motour O mean run capaitors S mean Start capaitor And you have three wire correct ?? If so one lead is common to both start and run capaitors And one lead will go to the run capaitors while other lead will be at start capaitor the shape of the conductor is allready forumed so it kinda pretty easy to tell which is which and look at the mounting band you will see the diffrence between the two. { the run capaitors are larger so they are designed to take cont useage } If you still have issue let us know asap one of us will make a drawing or call the Dayton tech support centre and they can send you a email of drawing on the connection as well if they have it. Merci. Marc If you could draw me up something that would be great. Don't want to wire them wrong. I appreciate your help This is how I understood it but you might want to wait for a Pro to approve it. Ray that the one I am talking about and you got it right on the target. To OP., This the way it will work like that but only gotcha the motor leads not alway mark which one but if you want to make sure just grab the ohmmeter the running winding will read little higher on ohm scale than starting windings Once you ohm them then it will be easy to hook it up as the drawing what Ray provided in here. Merci. Marc Could someone draw up a lil more detailed picture of hook them up. I'm not very good when it comes to electricity lol. The two black capacitors have 2 poles with 2 prongs on each pole. The silver start capacitor has 2 poles with 4 prongs each. The motor has 3 wires coming out from it, and then there are 3 smaller jumper wires I guess to jump from one capacitor to another. You remind me of the story my daddy used to tell of the guy bumming cigarettes. The two tabs on each pole of the capacitors are for the convenience of attaching multiple wires. Use the jumper wires to connect the two larger capacitors to each other in parallel. From pole a of the first capacitor to pole a of the second capacitor. Do the same with pole b. Use the third jumper to connect pole a of the combined capacitors to pole a on the smaller capacitor. Identify the three leads from the motor with the ohmmeter as previously described. Connect the motor lead that has continuity with both the other leads to the combined pole a of all three capacitors. Connect the lead showing the higher resistance to the previous common lead (the one you connected to pole a of the three capacitors) to pole b of the larger capacitors (either of the two larger capacitors) and connect the remaining motor lead to the unconnected pole of the smaller capacitor. If you send me a first class airline ticket and limo service to/from the airports I'll come do it for you. You really have two conection on each capacitor. Each connection has multiple places to put wires. If you post a picture of all your jumpers I may be able to give you a more precise picture. I see only two jumpers in the photo. Does this rendition help you? I just hooked it up and blew one of the capacitors. Between 2 leads I read 0.4ohms and between 1 lead and each of the other 2 leads I'm reading 2.6ohms. Which is most likely to be the start lead? Ok I took a better picture of the wires. We hooked up #1 as the Common We hooked up #2 as the Run We hooked up #3 as the Start This blew one of the capacitors. If we meter #2 and #3 against #1 and get 2.6ohms. If we meter #2 and #3 we get 0.4ohms. Which wires would be the Common, Run, and Start? Assuming L1 is common try taling resistance reading from L2 instead to each of the three leads and tell us what you get. See diagram below. Originally Posted by familyCJ7 I just hooked it up and blew one of the capacitors. Between 2 leads I read 0.4ohms and between 1 lead and each of the other 2 leads I'm reading 2.6ohms. Which is most likely to be the start lead? The 2.6 Ohms is running lead the .4 ohms is starting lead but something is not adding up right. take one ohmmeter lead from L1 or L2 and read at the capaitor leads it should ring it up and also can you tell me the numbers on the wires itself ?? I should able sort it out with numbers on it. Merci, Marc Originally Posted by french277V The 2.6 Ohms is running lead the .4 ohms is starting lead but something is not adding up right. take one ohmmeter lead from L1 or L2 and read at the capaitor leads it should ring it up and also can you tell me the numbers on the wires itself ?? I should able sort it out with numbers on it. Merci, Marc Number 2 and 3 as pictured are the only ones with numbers. #2 has a one or E can't make it out #3 has a 10 or -0 and #1 has a bunch of writing down it but I couldn't make out any numbers. Just give me a day I will call the Dayton tech support centre to verify and can you get the motor stock model number so I can get the correct wiring diagram. Merci. Marc Originally Posted by french277V Just give me a day I will call the Dayton tech support centre to verify and can you get the motor stock model number so I can get the correct wiring diagram. Merci. Marc There is only one sticker on the motor, not sure if it's the model number or not. Here is a picture: In case it's hard to read it says: 24 84 F126/2092 MG1000G7 The MG1999G27 pulls up a Valdor VL 1309 1HP motor....is that correct? When I searched google for that it pulls up that motor. Everything else is fixed on the compressor, if I can get the correct wiring then I'll be set but I'm sorry about being such a novice at electrical stuff. But you have pictures of my diagram of how I had it wired when I blew the one capacitor. So if you can use that and how I have the wires lables 1,2 and 3 then it will make it a no brainer for me. I appreciate all your help, Nick Was anyone able to figure out the capacitor wiring based off the sticker that was on the compressor motor? By the way I got the number wrong its MG1000G27 and it pulls up Baldor VL 1309 motor not Valdor. Sorry for the confusion. Marc, I respect your Intelligence but you have the capacitors all backwards the Black capacitors are both start capacitors...they are black plastic...biggest clue..and they are high mfd...thats start...and the metal can is the run..... low mfd... thats pretty much universal some modern run capacitors are plastic and some modern starts are metal but as a rule of thumb Black circle Plastic...above 60 mfd ...start... metal...oval circle or plastic box....under 30 mfd Run his starts are 259 mfd those need to be wired in parallel and to the start relay and the opposing wire . the run capacitor will connect directly from run to start as for the connections we need to know what drops out the start winding... centrifugal switch? ptc relay potential relay or a current relay Ben Certified HVAC-R technician HVAC Maintenance Mechanic Originally Posted by braether3 Marc, I respect your Intelligence but you have the capacitors all backwards the Black capacitors are both start capacitors...they are black plastic...biggest clue..and they are high mfd...thats start...and the metal can is the run..... low mfd... thats pretty much universal some modern run capacitors are plastic and some modern starts are metal but as a rule of thumb Black circle Plastic...above 60 mfd ...start... metal...oval circle or plastic box....under 30 mfd Run his starts are 259 mfd those need to be wired in parallel and to the start relay and the opposing wire . the run capacitor will connect directly from run to start as for the connections we need to know what drops out the start winding... centrifugal switch? ptc relay potential relay or a current relay Ben Certified HVAC-R technician HVAC Maintenance Mechanic Could you explain more in laimens terms, I'm not an electrician and what you wrote might as well have been a foreing language...lol as for the connections we need to know what drops out the start winding... centrifugal switch? ptc relay potential relay or a current relay What does this mean? What do I need to look for? I'm not sure if you have looked at all the pictures posted. The thing is turned on by the pressure switch. I explained one way I wired it, it ran but blew one of the start capacitors fast so something was hooked up wrong, but close because it did start and run. well to put it simply your black capacitors are start capacitors and they get wired in parallel your run capacitor is the metal oval... tell me what your wires are labeled and can prolly fiqure this out... I did left a message to the motour company and they should return the calll pretty soon once I get them and we will go from there. Ben., Humm that instering but if that the case then you are right but the last large single phase motour I did it was a big 15 HP unit that have 3 run capaititours and 3 large start capaitours it was little tricky to deal that one. Merci. Marc Originally Posted by braether3 well to put it simply your black capacitors are start capacitors and they get wired in parallel your run capacitor is the metal oval... tell me what your wires are labeled and can prolly fiqure this out... I wish I could tell you what they are labeled but they aren't readable. One has a 0 over a dash and the other 2 are unreadable but have a bunch of writing going all the way down the wire. Originally Posted by french277V I did left a message to the motour company and they should return the calll pretty soon once I get them and we will go from there. Merci. Marc Thanks, I appreciate all your help! Ever hear back about the capacitor wiring Marc? Originally Posted by familyCJ7 Ever hear back about the capacitor wiring Marc? Not yet but I should getting the reply anytime by now if not I will give them a buzz to see what is going on. Merci. Marc I found this.... if it helps. I can't make heads or tails of it. Seems like diagrams of the motor though. Baldor VL1309 Can you please fix the link due some of the members can not able open it up. Merci. Marc Link does work for me. Here is the wiring diagram from the link: Thanks for posting that up... does it help at all? You will need to wait for Marc or one of the other pros but that diagram, unless I'm blind, shows only a start capacitor. Where did mention of a run capacitor originate. Thank Ray for posting it up however with that diagram that is not a correct one due the OP did have both start and run capaitors and I did call the companine again and I will get a reply withen 12 hours. { I am in Paris France time zone } Merci. Marc Plus, that is a diagram for a two-speed motor and is not applicable to the question at hand. CJ, did you ever do the ohmmeter tests to determine the motor connections? Originally Posted by furd Plus, that is a diagram for a two-speed motor and is not applicable to the question at hand. CJ, did you ever do the ohmmeter tests to determine the motor connections? Furd that is not a two speed motor as Ray posted on the fourm that is dual voltage CSIR the quickest giveway is the main winding connections. Merci. Marc Mods I was only re-posting from other peoples posts. I did not verify if they were applicable. If they are wrong please delete. Okay, Marc, I just saw the single start winding and two run windings and made the assumption it was a two-speed. The image isn't too clear on my fast-dying laptop screen. I'd still like to know if CJ7 did the ohmmeter tests to identify the motor leads.
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