In our new home (being built), there is a loft which I plan to enclose for a small project studio. I found Owens/Corning makes a complete Noise Control System (R-13 insulation) for diffusing sound in the interior walls. John Manville also makes R-13 instulation they market as a way to decrease noise.
I plan to install the sound batts in the loft walls as well as some of the bath room walls prior to the drywall going up. What I'm looking for are tips and instructions for installing this stuff. One place says to staple the kraft flanges to the studs, others say not to use kraft faced insullation under drywall. They also recommend using the caulking to seal any openings. In some of my books for building studios, they say there should be a gap between the drywall and the insulation to provide additional attenuation.
Is installation really as easy as it sounds? Roll it out top to bottom and staple? Where should I use caulking? Any other suggestions to decrease noise?
Last, I found a place that sells R-13 kraft faced insullation 15 on center for 24.6 cents a sqft. Is that good?
Thanks to all whom reply,
soundman
STC ratings are virtually the same for R-13 and R-11... Unfaced is all you need to install for this purpose. Some people like to install the kraft just to insure it doesnt fall out during the installation of drywall.. making sure all voids are filled is the best idea.
Fiberglass Insulation is a decent sound deadener for the money, but by no means is it sound proofing. Generally speaking it will make an audible voice sound muffled.
Mineral Wool provides a better performance than fiberglass for sound transfer deadening purposes, Its a little itchier to work with though.
as far as 24 cents a foot for R-13 , I would say that is about the going rate.. Home depot in this area has R-11 for 19.9 cents and this is kraft faced.
If your thinkikng of caulking I would caulk all doublers in any wall your sounding and be sure insualtion is packed well around any outlets or penetrations in the walls your sounding..
Good Luck
Jim
Here's a link to a site that I'm told has good info about soundproofing:
http://soundproofing.org/
I agree with Insulman about caulking any gaps. From what I've read, they say gaps let through a lot of noise, more than you'd expect. This applies to gaps around doors and electrical outlets too.
I would look for a sound deadener denser than simple fiberglass. The reason being that you don't want the sound to pass through easily and if it can use up some of its energy in trying to vibrate a mass there'll be less energy to radiate when it gets to the other side.
Tags: sound, proofing, through, insulation, kraft faced, decrease noise, faced insullation, kraft faced insullation, sound deadener, your sounding
