If you are renovating a room and don't want to deal with handling drywall on the ceiling, consider installing a suspended ceiling system. This project is not difficult and is an economical way to hide pipes, wiring and unsightly cracked ceilings. Manufacturers of ceiling tile realize that homeowners want something more than just white ceilings. You can purchase a suspended ceiling system with different colors of ceiling tiles. The tiles are also available in a wide variety of textures.
Instructions
1. Measure four inches down from the ceiling. Mark this as a level line all the way around the room with a chalk line. You need four inches of space to drop the ceiling tiles into place. If you plan to add light fixtures in the suspended ceiling, add two more inches to the depth from the ceiling or joists.
2. Locate the wall studs. Nail the perimeter rails that come with the suspended ceiling system to the studs with 6 d nails. Align the top of the rail with the chalk line. Cut the rail with tin snips as necessary to make it fit. Butt the corners together.
3. Use the stud finder to locate the ceiling joists. Measure the width of the room perpendicular to the way the joists run. Divide that number by the width of the ceiling tiles you are installing. If that number is not even, the remainder is how much tile you are going to have left over. Divide that amount by two to get the width of the outside panels. In other words, balance the layout of the ceiling tiles so that there's a narrower row along the outside edge. Snap chalk lines accordingly on the ceiling with spacing for full size tiles set at 4 feet apart, or whatever is appropriate for the size tiles you are using.
4. Tie one end of a piece of string so it's level with the bottom of the perimeter rail. Fasten it on the opposite wall so the string is taut. Create a grid across the ceiling with string. This provides the level-line marker for the suspension grids.
5. Twist eyebolts into every third ceiling joist along the chalk line. Wrap the end of a piece of 16-gauge wire through an eyebolt and tie it off by twisting it three times. Allow the wire to hang several inches below the string line. Repeat this across the room, adding wire to each of the eyebolts.
6. Snap a row of ceiling beam pieces together. Set one end in the outside rail. Some systems have slots to connect the ceiling beam into. Slide the other end in position. Align the rail with the chalk line on the ceiling.
7. Pull the end of a support wire through a hole on the topside of the ceiling beam. Fasten the end of the wire by wrapping it around itself. Cut off any extra with a pair of wire cutters. The beam should be level with the string grid. Repeat this process until you finish setting all the ceiling beam pieces perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Remove the string.
8. Put the crossbeams in position. With most systems they simply snap in place. Use tin snips to cut short pieces around the outside of the room.
9. Cut the narrow pieces of ceiling tile that may surround the perimeter of the ceiling. Use a utility knife and a straight edge to make a clean cut from the face side of the tile. Make a paper template of irregular shapes to help you cut them accurately. Slide each tile in position.
10. Set the full-sized tiles in position in the grid.
Tags: ceiling beam, ceiling tiles, chalk line, suspended ceiling, ceiling joists, ceiling system, rail with