Friday, February 28, 2014

wayne-dalton-idrive-fix

Wayne Dalton iDrive Fix


I know that the Wayne Dalton iDrive has been discontinued but for those of us that still have one – this is what worked for me. I have 2 iDrives, one has been replaced with a new unit (just before Wayne Dalton sold out) and the other in a little used door and has survived well. Last week my wife inadvertently ran the install routine on the opener and it stopped working. All it would do was beep twice and then buzz. I replaced the fuse (not knowing if the fuse was for the motor alone), that didn’t help. I tried erasing the programming and reprogramming the wall and car transmitters, still not working and the same 2 beeps and a buzz. I disengaged the drive unit and raised and lowered the door and everything seemed in balance and working smoothly. Went to the net, but couldn’t find a solution. I wanted to go for a ride (my bike is located in the single door side of the garage which is giving me the problems) so I disengaged the drive, lifted the door, got my bike out, went back in and lowered the garage door, re-engaged the drive and gave it a lift and the door went up!! I double checked the release which was engaged, I then took a stick and stuck it between the motor ( the locking foot) and wall and wiggled it to see if I could get the door secured, but it didn’t engage. So I figured I’d just have to replace the opener, set the side rail locks and left for breakfast with my wife. At breakfast I had my eureka moment and sort of out of the blue said a little too loudly “I think I know what the problem is!”. Went back to the house and lifted the door up while engaged and sure enough saw the garage door jackshaft (the shaft across the top of the door that has the spring and the cables attached to it) spin inside the drive wheels on the iDrive opener. I got a ladder and tightened the left side drive wheel set screw, I got about ѕ of a turn and it snugged down very tight, the right side set screw on the other hand was completely loose and took about 3 or 4 complete revolutions before it made contact with the jackshaft and an additional ѕ of a turn to really tighten it up. Reprogrammed the wall switch and ran the install routine AND IT WORKED!! I’d guess that the machine sensed that there was no load and threw and error and stopped the lift. After I got the single door opener working, it seemed prudent to me to check my double door opener and sure enough the left drive wheel was starting to loosen and the right wheel was loose, I finger tightened it for a full turn and retightened it up. I’ve set appointments(reminders) on my calendar for myself to check the tension on the jamb screws on these openers every 4 months (to start) to keep them operational. Hope this helps.








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